Former convent still one of the best luxury stays in fashion capital
Well, this is a scene. The streets around the Four Seasons, bang in the exclusive Quadrilatero d’Oro fashion district, are jam-packed with global stylistas being videoed oh-so casually crossing the street in front of Chanel (more than once to get that truly authentic feel). Meanwhile, Milanese locals attempt to go about their daily lives, immaculately turned out in the accepted shades of grey, charcoal and black, but usually with some serious boots and the latest It bag. If you’re not confident about your wardrobe choices, steer clear.
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On Via Gesù, the hotel’s entrance is discreet; no sweeping driveways here, just a couple of the world’s most efficient doormen seamlessly juggling limos, taxis and suitcases. The doors of this 15th-century former convent open directly into the Stilla bar and lounge, an open-plan meeting space populated by a mix of business people, coiffed nonnas and well-heeled tourists. Around the corner, the reception desk staff are fast, knowledgeable and efficient.
The look
This particular Four Seasons property – the Canadian brand’s first in continental Europe when it opened in 1993 – still feels elegant but a 2021 renovation by acclaimed Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola has given it a more contemporary look, with furniture and lighting from renowned Italian brands such as Cassina, Poltrona Frau and Aggiolight.
Urquiola has balanced the building’s heritage – fragments of Renaissance frescoes, ogival vaults and ancient fireplaces – with beautiful, sober colours, low modular seating and limited-edition photographs. Beyond the revamped interiors lies the hotel’s unique selling point: an interior cloister garden redesigned by landscape architect Flavio Pollano. Originally a medicinal herb garden, with its white market umbrellas and comfy seating it’s now a green oasis that makes the frenzy of Milan feel a world away (except when corporate events are being held there, that is, when loud music and chatter disturb the peace).
The room
The 118 rooms and suites recently emerged from an overhaul by French interior designer Pierre-Yves Rochon. Inside our 53-square-metre open-plan Studio Garden Suite, Rochon’s touch translates to custom rosewood cabinetry, textured velvet and brass finishes, and furniture sourced from local design houses Poliform and Rubelli Casa. The sophisticated tones of terracotta and stone take their cues from the downstairs frescoes, while muted watercolours and natural light from large windows overlooking the courtyard lend a tranquil feel.
In the bathroom, the original marble remains intact but with redesigned sinks, a deep bathtub, a rain shower and a bidet (my favourite European feature). Thoughtful additions include a glass ring-holder by the basin, and – on the other side of the entryway – a walk-in wardrobe complete with yoga mat and blocks, plus his and hers umbrellas.
Food + drink
I first stayed here many moons ago, and my abiding memory is of a precision-cut fruit salad that I was supremely grateful had been prepared for me (I had toddlers at the time). This time around, breakfast outside is equally memorable, and happily includes a precision-cut fruit plate. Instead of the wasteful buffets of many large hotels, there’s a small selection of pastries and breads, and everything else is prepared to order.
Zelo restaurant, helmed by executive chef Fabrizio Borraccino, sensibly sticks to meticulous interpretations of Italian staples: “Come to Zelo, and you’ll have a small tour of Italy right at the table – and of Milan as well,” he says. For us, this means maccheroncelli tube pasta with a white (no tomato) meat ragout and whole sea bass filleted at the table. The wine list leans towards regional Italian varietals, and our sommelier, who’s from the Langhe region of Piedmont, ensures we try some local favourites of his.
Stilla bar offers all-day dining, from a morning espresso through to a lobster bao and evening aperitivi, and also services the courtyard garden, where we meet jet-lagged friends over coffee and panini.
Back in the room, nice extras include a bottle of fresh milk in the fridge, chocolate-almond clusters in a ceramic jar by the kettle and a ready-to-drink cocktail of the day. There’s also a champagne stopper – surprisingly few luxury hotels routinely provide these.
Out + about
It would be hard to find a better Milanese address. You’re bang in the centre of the luxury shopping district, and a 10-minute stroll brings you to the legendary La Scala opera theatre, the Duomo, and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (have a stand-up coffee or a sit-down negroni at Camparino in Galleria). Head in the opposite direction, and you’ll find the Brera art district, now getting somewhat touristy although the orto botanico (botanic garden) is worth a quick wander. Further afield we couldn’t fault the cooking at Rovello Ristorante, and Dexter was a fun vinyl bar with excellent snacks influenced by Peru, Mexico and Spain.
The verdict
With its newly refurbished interiors, subterranean spa (complete with a 20-metre-pool beneath a vaulted stone ceiling), and reassuringly old-school service, the Four Seasons Milan remains one of the city’s best luxury stays.
Essentials
Rooms from €1300 a night ($2130). The hotel offers three fully accessible rooms and most other rooms are also wheelchair accessible and highly accommodating for families too. See fourseasons.com/milan
Our score out of five
★★★★½
Highlight
Those doormen are some of the best in the business, perfectly in keeping with such an established hotel.
Lowlight
The cloister garden is lovely, especially in the centre of Milan, but hosted a couple of noisy corporate events during our two-night stay.
The writer stayed as a guest of Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts.
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