History, culture key to Indonesia's gastronomic tourism

Jakarta (ANTARA) - The history and culture behind a dish are important elements in developing gastronomic tourism in Indonesia, alongside its flavor and the ingredients.

Gastronomic tourism is not merely about serving food, but also about sharing stories, cultural experiences, and sustainable local food sources, the Chairperson of the Yogyakarta Regional Tourism Promotion Agency (BPPD), Gusti Kanjeng Ratu (GKR) Bendara, said in a Tourism Ministry release here on Sunday.

"All gastronomic tourism products in Yogyakarta must have a story behind them. For example, why does Yogyakarta cuisine tend to be sweet? Because during the reign of Sultan Hamengkubuwono VII, there were around 19 sugar factories in Yogyakarta," GKR Bendara explained.

She said that sugar was a symbol of social status and wealth for the palace, so beverages and food at the time were served very sweet.

"People therefore understand the historical background. This must be packaged properly," she said.

GKR Bendara said gastronomy is not merely about taste, but also an understanding of the philosophy and identity behind a dish. Well-documented historical records are one of the strengths of Yogyakarta's gastronomy.

Examples include two rare dishes, nasi golong gilig and dawet sambal. Dawet sambal combines sweet dawet, pecel peanut sauce, and tofu.

"Sometimes people reject dawet sambal as soon as they hear about it, because they wonder how sweet dawet could have sambal (chili paste) in it. So it is sweet dawet with pecel sauce, so there is tofu but also dawet," she added.

Additionally, Bukittinggi Mayor Ramlan Nurmatias added that gastronomy needs to be packaged through a strong narrative rooted in cultural values.

He cited rendang as an example, saying the dish not only has a distinctive flavor but also carries philosophical meaning.

"Gastronomy must continue to be documented, passed down, and integrated with heritage city planning and historical stories to provide optimal added value for tourists," Nurmatias said.

Chef Fernando Sindu continued that local consumers hold high standards for regional food because they have emotional ties to the dishes they have known since childhood.

"Indonesians are very critical of local food because they have memories or emotional ties with family dishes, such as that of a grandmother or mother," Sindu said.

These views were conveyed at Wonderful Indonesia Gastronomy (WIG) Talks 2026, held in Yogyakarta on Friday (October 2), featuring 22 speakers from government, industry, arts practitioners, and academia to discuss the development of gastronomy as cultural identity and a driver of sustainable economic growth.

Related news: WIG 2026 connects Indonesian culinary products to global markets

Translator: Hreeloita, Kenzu
Editor: Bayu Prasetyo
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