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Thursday, October 22, 2026

Table Manners

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Beachside suburban dining gets serious (and a little playful).

Minding your manners isn’t much of an issue in sunny, barefoot Bronte, but first time restaurateur Alex Cameron has brought a level of Euro sophistication to the beachside suburb.

The linen-clothed tables, statement lamps, candlelight and silver ice buckets set the scene for civilised wining and dining. Chef Luke Churchill amplifies the elegance with snacks such as horseradish-scented raw tuna on toast and a beef tartare, the hand-chopped sirloin capped with fried quail egg and crisp wisps of pommes allumettes.

Some dishes shout – the Moreton Bay bug club sando with fries, or Puglia’s pan-fried spaghetti all’assassina topped with king prawns. But the more understated main courses are quietly rewarding, such as crisp-skinned red mullet with sauce Americaine and fregola, and lamb rump with baby peas and broad beans.

Mind, with a 400 bottle wine list, you may need to mind those manners after all.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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Last visited: 2024

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