This Deepavali, make room for the Kanjivaram saree

For many Indian women, the saree remains a timeless wardrobe staple. But did you know there are more than 100 recognised saree styles, each with its own weaving technique and history?

Among them is the Kanjivaram, often called the “Queen of Silks”. Originating from Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu, the silk saree is a symbol of South Indian heritage, renowned for its rich colours, intricate designs and gold or silver metallic thread work called zari.

Dating back more than 400 years, the Kanjivaram saree is the product of painstaking craftsmanship.

Woven from pure mulberry silk, each saree, measuring over 5 metres in length, takes several weeks to complete and involves close to 50 pairs of hands, from harvesting the silk yarn to tying the final knot on the loom.

Two sisters are working to keep this tradition alive through Pattushastra, a boutique they started from home in 2012.

Over the past 14 years, Suvitha and Jeevitha Rajasingam, raised in Sentul, have sold thousands of sarees, attracting customers from across Malaysia and Singapore, Australia and Canada.

Their clientele also extends beyond the Indian community, with Malay and Chinese customers among those drawn to the craft.

Neither sister began her career in textiles. Suvitha spent 15 years as a lecturer at a private university while Jeevitha pursued her medical education. Their shared appreciation for handloom sarees, however, inspired them to learn more about the industry and work directly with master weavers in India.

“Our first feel of a Kanjivaram saree was very special. It was from our grandmother. We remember instantly falling in love with the handloom workmanship on the saree,” Suvitha said.

“Today, that saree is 60 years old and has become an heirloom in our family.”

In 2021, the sisters recreated their grandmother’s saree design with their own weavers in a variety of fabrics, and it remains part of Pattushastra’s collection.

“Once you wear handloom, you’ll never want to wear anything else again,” said Jeevitha.

“What separates an authentic handwoven Kanjivaram saree is the movement of the fabric, the sheen, the comfort, and certain imperfections that make it not all uniform.”

Behind a finished Kanjivaram saree lies a lengthy process which supports generations of skilled weavers and their families.

“Today, inexpensive semi-silks, art silks and powerloom sarees command a much larger market than authentic handloom weaves,” Suvitha said. “We need to support handloom products – weavers and their families depend on it for their survival.”

At Pattushastra, the sisters source their sarees directly from master weavers, and Suvitha travels to India to meet them and oversee the weaving process. They also explore colour combinations and designs that appeal to contemporary tastes.

Kanjivaram sarees come in a variety of styles, including Vaira Oosi, known as diamond needle designs, with fine metallic pinstripes, tissue weaves with a lustrous sheen and sarees without the usual contrasting borders.

They also believe a traditional saree need not be styled conventionally. Malaysian artist Vanidah Imran combined one with a traditional kebaya concept in 2023.

Beyond its main collection, Pattushastra also has an Artisan Room featuring hand-painted and handloom cotton sarees made by single mothers and unemployed women from low-income communities in Kolkata.

For Jeevitha, the significance of a Kanjivaram extends beyond its luxurious feel and styling possibilities.

“A pure silk Kanjivaram saree is the best to wear for temple visits on special occasions, as the real gold and silver elements in it are designed to absorb the temple’s spiritual energy,” she said.

The sisters hope these traditions will be passed down to future generations.

“Sarees deserve a place in our everyday lives, not just at celebrations,” Suvitha said. “Many of us began to see them as heavy or inconvenient, and somewhere along the way, we lost touch with the ease and comfort of a simply draped saree.”

She hopes more women will rediscover the garment, whether by bringing a treasured family heirloom out of the cupboard or choosing a handloom saree of their own.

“So, this Deepavali – and beyond – we encourage everyone to wear one,” Suvitha said.

Follow Pattushastra on Instagram and Facebook.

Pattushastra Boutique
11A, Jalan 11/9, Seksyen 11,
46200 Petaling Jaya, Selangor

Business hours: 11am-7pm (Closed on Mondays)

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