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Thursday, September 24, 2026

Jaathara at Barkly

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Updated ,first published

Outside the West Footscray eatery.Joe Armao
13/20Critics' Pick

Indian$

Snacks that will transport you to the streets of Hyderabad.

Jaathara’s menu might list popular comforts like butter chicken and naan, but the real stars are the Southern Indian specialties. Start with mysore bonda: five golden, spice-flecked spheres made from rice and wheat flours, yoghurt and coriander.

Crisp on the outside and soft within, they’re lifted by coconut chutney, tomato-chilli chutney and tangy sambar. Ghee tawa idli are a must: steamed, bite-sized cakes fried in ghee until nutty and aromatic with podi – a crucial South Indian spice mix – and curry leaves. Masala pesarattu – a green mung-bean crepe wrapped around potato, onion and carrot masala – is hearty and earthy.

Order a lightly sweet masala chai to cut through the richness. For dessert, gulab jamun arrives warm, syrup-soaked and accompanied by vanilla ice-cream. Service can lag, but the room is bright and welcoming. A Footscray go-to for affordable Southern Indian classics.

Must-order: JTR mysore bonda.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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