India revamps cotton testing labs amid govt’s push for global cotton and textile hub

The ₹38.72 crore upgrade will add modern testing equipment across 21 labs in key cotton-producing regions as India seeks to improve quality, competitiveness and textile exports.

The Centre has begun a major revamp of the country's cotton fibre testing infrastructure, with the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) expediting the modernization of 21 laboratories across key cotton-producing regions, two government officials said.

The project, under the aegis of the Department of Consumer Affairs, will equip laboratories operated by the Textiles Committee, Power Loom Service Centres and the Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) with modern testing equipment to assess cotton fibre quality and impurities.

The initiative is aimed at strengthening quality assessment closer to cotton-producing regions, supporting fairer quality-based transactions and improving the competitiveness of Indian cotton and textiles in global markets.

The development assumes significance given that India is one of the world's largest cotton producers, accounting for about 23% of global cotton output. It comes against the backdrop of India's efforts to strengthen its position as a global cotton and textile hub.

Queries sent to the Department of Consumer Affairs remained unanswered till press time.

Testing push

The ₹38.72 crore project, approved by the Department of Consumer Affairs, will equip the 21 laboratories with modern testing equipment to assess cotton fibre quality and impurities, the officials said.

The mission is among the most ambitious interventions in India’s cotton-textile value chain in recent years, linking farm productivity with manufacturing competitiveness and export growth.

“The standards body plans to deploy 22 high volume instrument (HVI) testers and 44 trash analysers across the 21 laboratories under its testing infrastructure project,” said first among the two cited above.

As per the first official, 14 HVI testers and 28 trash analysers have already been installed and commissioned across 13 laboratories this year. Of these, 11 laboratories belong to the Textiles Committee and two to CCI, this person said.

HVI testers assess the quality of cotton fibres, including their length and strength, which affects the quality of yarn and fabric, while trash analysers measure impurities such as leaves, stems and other unwanted material in raw cotton. Together, they help ensure better-quality cotton before it is spun into yarn and made into garments such as shirts.

The laboratories are spread across the northern, central, southern and eastern regions, covering major cotton-producing states including Punjab, Rajasthan, Gujarat, Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Telangana, Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Odisha.

The remaining equipment under the project will further expand the network’s testing capacity. The upgrade focuses on two key aspects of cotton testing: fibre characteristics and impurities.

Such measurements are important because fibre characteristics affect the quality and processing performance of cotton, yarn and finished textile products.

“By placing modern equipment across a wider network of laboratories, the government is seeking to make more consistent and standardized testing available across major cotton-producing regions,” said the second official.

Quality matters

“For the domestic industry, improving productivity alone is not sufficient to strengthen competitiveness. Consistent quality assessment is also important because cotton is traded on the basis of characteristics that influence its processing performance and value,” said Raja M. Shanmugam, former president of the Tirupur Exporters' Association (TEA).

“A wider network of instrument-based testing facilities could help provide more standardized information on cotton quality and reduce dependence on limited testing centres,” he said.

The push to improve testing infrastructure comes as India's cotton production has declined in recent years even as domestic demand has remained high. According to agriculture ministry data, cotton production stood at 31.11 million bales in FY22 and rose to 33.66 million bales in FY23. It then slipped to 32.52 million bales in FY24, 29.72 million bales in FY25 and an estimated 29.1 million bales in FY26.

At the same time, demand continues to rise as India expands textile manufacturing. An industry report estimates consumption at 32.8 million bales, implying a deficit of 3.7 million bales.

Output challenge

The government aims to raise cotton production to 49.8 million bales by 2030-31, from an estimated 29 million bales in 2025-26. Domestic demand is projected to rise to nearly 45 million bales by then.

The target is part of the government's Mission for Cotton Productivity, approved in May 2026 with a ₹5,659.22 crore outlay through 2030-31. The mission seeks to raise cotton production to 498 lakh bales while improving productivity and quality.

Import dependence has also surged. Cotton imports jumped from $579.21 million in FY24 to $1.2 billion in FY25, while exports fell from $972.17 million to $660.40 million over the same period.

About the Author

Dhirendra Kumar is a seasoned policy reporter with about 20 years of experience in deep, on-ground reporting across key economic and governance sectors. His work spans finance, public expenditure, disinvestment, public sector enterprises, textiles, trade, consumer affairs, and agriculture, with a strong focus on uncovering structural policy shifts and their real-world impact.<br><br>Kumar has been awarded the Chaudhary Charan Singh Award for Excellence in Journalism in Agricultural Research and Development, recognising his contribution to reporting on critical issues in the farm sector. He has also been a recipient of a fellowship in international trade from the National Press Foundation, which has further strengthened his coverage of global trade dynamics and their implications for India.<br><br>Kumar is known for breaking complex policy developments into clear, accessible stories. His reporting focuses on uncovering under-reported trends, explaining policy shifts, and helping readers stay informed about developments that shape India’s economic landscape.