How nasi kandar found its way to Phu Quoc

A plate of nasi kandar with mixed curries, fried cabbage and honey chicken may not be the first thing that comes to mind when one thinks of Phu Quoc. But for Malaysian businessman Nash Ramesh, it has become part of everyday life on Vietnam’s largest island.

The 52-year-old from Taiping, who has lived in Vietnam for the past 12 years, recently opened Mina Nasi Kandar Halal Restaurant in Phu Quoc with a friend from Langkawi.

The idea came during a holiday on the island, when the pair wanted to find more halal options for mealtimes.

“After spending three days here, we felt that the food options were rather limited, despite there being several halal restaurants,” Nash recalled.

“So we wanted to provide an alternative to tourists, especially those from Malaysia or who have previously visited our country and experienced Malaysian cuisine.”

The appeal goes beyond serving travellers who miss home: it is also about recreating the kind of meal Malaysians instantly recognise. Think curries poured over rice, ayam kicap, ayam berempah, sambal belacan, ulam and, of course, a glass of teh tarik on the side.

Some ingredients are easy enough to source locally, while others still require a little more effort. Nash returns to Malaysia every few months to pick up items that are harder to find in Vietnam, including belacan for sambal.

To keep the flavours familiar, he also brought Malaysian cooks to Phu Quoc.

His wife, Van Anh, who is Vietnamese, has picked up a number of Malaysian recipes over the 15 years they have been married. That mix of cultures has also found its way naturally onto the menu.

Alongside nasi kandar, diners can find Malaysian favourites such as nasi lemak, fried noodles and roti canai, as well as Vietnamese staples including pho and banh mi.

Roti canai, in particular, has caught the attention of local diners, especially when it is prepared fresh in front of them.

Thanks to the establishment, visitors from other countries have also become more familiar with nasi kandar. Nash said popular choices include soy sauce chicken, honey chicken and spiced chicken, while drinks such as teh tarik and limau ais remain familiar companions to each meal.

Nash stressed that halal requirements were an important consideration from the start, with meat and poultry sourced through recognised suppliers.

But perhaps the most personal part of the venture is the connection it gives him to home. “This restaurant helps ease my longing to meet and chat with Malaysians,” he concluded.

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