Sali Hughes on beauty: if you can’t use retinoids, these proven anti-ageing formulas are the next best thing

Anyone with an internet connection will no doubt have heard that retinoids – a group of vitamin A-based compounds – are the most evidenced and effective ingredients in treating the visible signs of skin ageing. Message received loud and clear. But what often goes unheard are the voices of many beauty consumers who have found that they simply cannot use them. All too often, I see experts online telling those complaining of discomfort, unremitting dryness, persistent redness, stinging or angry reactions that they just need to “find the right retinol” or simply “push through” the pain barrier. But I will die on this hill: not everyone can use retinoids, and they can still achieve great results without them.

If I don’t convince you, believe my esteemed consultant, dermatologist Dr Justine Hextall (a woman I respect and trust so completely that I have entrusted her with my children’s skin health), because she agrees. While Hextall, as any good derm would, prescribes retinoids on a daily basis, she also sees patients for whom there is a more appropriate, kinder pathway. “While retinoids are effective, they can be difficult to tolerate and may not be used consistently in those with sensitive skin,” she says. “Consistency is the key in skincare.”

Essentially, she believes that if skin is not robust enough to tolerate one ingredient every day, it may be better to use a group of other well-evidenced ingredients it can cope with. In such cases, she recommends a combination of peptides, like Matrixyl 3000 (a key inclusion in The Ordinary’s Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides 1% Serum, £28.90), for supporting collagen, and a neuropeptide, like Argireline (present in Skinceuticals’ P-Tiox Serum, £135, and Naturium’s Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum, £27), to help smooth fine lines. If the idea of multiple serums turns you off – it does me – Asterwood makes one that combines both, for a reasonable £26.99. Beauty Pie’s Superdrops Flash Face Lift Intense Serum (£45; £24 for members) is another good Matrixyl/Argireline combo.

Hextall also recommends the use of azelaic acid and alpha hydroxy acids to brighten dull skin. I use AHAs 2-4 times a week after cleansing, and it’s worth the minimal effort. Any that your skin tolerates well will be fine. Finally, Hextall suggests a good antioxidant, like Cetaphil’s Advanced Defence Serum (£26.50), and, of course, sunscreen. Without adequate sun protection, any penny spent on the above is as good as down the drain.