The Great British Bake Off review – Nigella is wise, generous … and perfect for this national treasure of a show

There’s a very good argument to be made for requiring a national referendum on whether presenters of shows that are part of our cultural identity should be allowed to leave, followed by – if necessary – a vote on who should replace them. At the very least, this would avoid the parlous state of affairs we face right now: at the very moment the public is grappling with the new-look Strictly Come Dancing (Tess and Claudia replaced by Emma Willis, Josh Widdicombe and Johannes Radebe, three whole different people!) we are asked to cope with a change to the order of the tented universe too.

For The Great British Bake Off lineup has replaced Prue Leith (who stepped down after deciding that, at 86, she would quite like to go back to having holidays instead of filming the series all summer) with – the one! The only! – Nigella Lawson.

It is, in TV terms, a big “get” and has been much heralded. And if there had been a public vote, Lawson would probably have won it. So is change always synonymous with destruction, or can Nigella buck the trend for modern enshittification of all things and give us the sanctuary we crave?

Yes, my friends. Yes, she can. She moves through Bake Off dispensing words of wisdom, generous praise and gentle criticism, just as confident as Leith but a much quieter, more soothing presence that works perfectly with Alison Hammond’s ebullience and Paul Hollywood’s teacher-ish vibe. She has a streak of romance that complements Hollywood’s ever-practical approach too, which enables her to enjoy contestants’ flourishes (the mirror, for example, that drag performer Gabe makes to decorate the “self-portrait” showstopper challenge behind which hides his alternative persona) in a way that Paul – a man without whimsy – does not.

The producers wisely do not give Lawson a big introduction on the show itself. Hammond welcomes her, she is lightly ribbed over “sumptuous” (attached to the chocolate stout cake that presents the first challenge) being a very Nigella word (though “ferrous tang” a bit later on has got to be up there too) and then we’re straight into business.

The key to a successful stout cake is slow cooking on a low heat and leaving enough time for it to cool before decoration. The contestants all understand this, which reminds you that the greatest attraction of Bake Off was, is and (God willing) always shall be the opportunity to watch competent people do things well and be celebrated – instead of seeing foolish people get humiliated on screen, then destroyed on social media.

Accordingly, the tent soon fills with cherry compotes, Swiss meringue and ambition. We move with the presenters, Hammond and Noel Fielding, round the work stations to get our first look at the cakes and contestants. Is everything going OK, Noel asks young Danni. “Indeedaroonie!” Danni replies. “You’re already my favourite,” says a grinning Noel.

Everywhere you look, people are doing clever things with buttercream, cardamom and something called malt mascarpone because people are amazing. Clara, from Portugal, who began baking two years ago, is trying and failing to make a sugar dome, but true disaster befalls Molly when her perfectly baked cake is taken out of the oven and drops in truly irrecoverable fashion to the floor. She takes a moment, then starts again, this time in sandwich rather than bundt tins so the new bake time will be shorter. Molly, our hearts are with you.

Judgment time. Connie, who runs a music centre and brings cakes in for her students, has provided “fascinating flavours” but overbaked. “The fear of unmoulding seizes one,” says Nigella, sympathetically. Hairdresser Tom has gone too heavy on the bicarb. But law student and calisthenics fan (this is the other great feature of Bake Off – everyone hints at multitudes) Mo’s peanut and caramel creation is “sensational – I’m in heaven” (Nigella) and “spot on – I love it” (Paul).

The technical bake hinges on replacing the right amount of flour with the right amount of crushed walnut and providing a strong enough coffee hit. Tom redeems himself (“My dream cake,” says Nigella), Gabe and Gary (smallholder, took up baking five years ago) make good showings, but Molly’s is deemed lacking. We fear for Molly, until … showstopper challenge triumph! Oh yes. Roaring back she comes, with a “light, tart beautiful bake” replete with mango and lemon curd and honour is restored.

My screener contained the star baker reveal but not who was sent home. Assuming it was the contestant who deserved it (although none of them deserves it – they are all magicians to me, conjuring this edible art from nowhere) I pronounce the good ship Bake Off fully seaworthy. Long may she sail with Nigella and crew at the helm.