Six of the best things to do in Bordeaux, from wine tasting to riverside dining

I’ve been to Bordeaux many times. It was the first wine region I ever visited – the place that ignited a passion that would become my career. Usually, I’d head straight to the vineyards of Pauillac, Margaux or Saint-Émilion. But this time I swapped the vines for the city to discover why Bordeaux is one of Europe’s ultimate wine and gastronomic breaks, where world-class wine, exceptional food, rich history and warm hospitality come together. 

The tasting 

A visit to Le Bar à Vin is a must (here I am, below left). This wonderfully unpretentious institution feels somewhere between a grand civic building, a museum and a wine bar. Run by the CIVB (Bordeaux Wine Council), it showcases the full diversity of Bordeaux: 30 wines by the glass at affordable prices. We compared Cabernet Sauvignon-led Left Bank blends with Merlot-dominant Right Bank wines. Arrive between 2pm and 4pm to beat the crowds. 

The hotel 

Mondrian Bordeaux Les Carmes in Chartrons (from £170, mondrianhotels.com) is a five-star hotel in a former 19th-century wine cellar with Philippe Starck interiors. When pausing from eating and drinking, retreat to the spa with indoor pool. A 20-minute walk from the centre, Chartrons charms with antique shops, boutiques and riverside quays. My drinking discoveries? Le Sobre Chartrons for relaxed wine and snacks, and Symbiose for cocktails.

The museum 

The quayside Cité du Vin museum is a 3,000sq m wine utopia. Its twisting metallic structure evokes wine swirling in a glass. Allow at least two hours for the permanent exhibition (£20), exploring wine – Bordeaux and beyond – through all your senses (the interactive smell displays are brilliant). Then reward yourself with a glass of wine (included in the price) at the eighth-floor Belvédère bar with panoramic views of the city.

The restaurant 

Step into OST Bordeaux, a former wine cellar with warm lighting and minimalist yet cosy interiors (aptly, OST takes its name from ‘host’). Its concise, seasonal menu combines French technique with Asian influences. Don’t miss the red tuna sando (£12, above) – I’m still thinking about it – while confit pork belly (£24) was flavour-packed. My pièce de résistance? Plucking a hot madeleine from a tray as we left, before drinks around the buzzy Place du Palais. 

The walk 

Bordeaux’s historic centre is best explored on foot. Thanks to the city’s pedestrianisation, wandering its streets is a pleasure. We joined Bordeaux local Bruno Beurrier for a history-and-gastronomy walking tour, exploring the streets around Cathédrale Saint-André while uncovering the city’s storied past. Along the way we sampled canelés at Boulangerie Jocteur and Fromagerie Deruelle cheeses, before finishing at the lively Marché des Capucins.