How China's first lady Peng Liyuan turns US visits into fashion diplomacy

Peng Liyuan, wife of Chinese President Xi Jinping, has drawn praise for her fashion choices on her U.S. visits since 2015.

On Sept. 25, U.S. President Donald Trump and first lady Melania Trump hosted Xi and Peng for tea in the White House's Red Room, with a Western-style menu. Peng chose a minimalist purple shift dress that matched Xi's tie. In the language of political fashion, purple, a blend of the red that symbolizes China and the navy blue of the West, signals harmony, connection and easing tensions, according to the South China Morning Post.

Vogue said her switch from the fiery red gown she wore at the state dinner the night before to purple for the tea gave the trip a subtle fashion signature. Photo by AP

On the evening of Sept. 24, local time, Trump hosted a state dinner for Xi and Peng at the White House. Peng wore a minimalist deep red A-line gown with a mandarin collar. Xi wore a traditional black Zhongshan suit, also known as a Mao suit. Photo by AP

According to fashion journal Women's Wear Daily, the couple's outfits formed a classic diplomatic color pairing.

As on her previous trips, Peng kept to her rule of wearing only work by Chinese designers to promote her country's image, WWD reported. She never reveals specific labels, and the brands in turn never use her name for commercial marketing.

The red of Peng's gown matched the dominant color of the dinner setting designed by Melania Trump, which featured dahlias, ranunculus and deep red tablecloths. In Chinese culture, red symbolizes luck, happiness, prosperity and vitality, a positive message in diplomacy. WWD said the choice was seen as a courteous nod to her hosts that also asserted her own identity.

Melania Trump's unconventional, tuxedo-inspired look contrasted with Peng's. She paired a white Saint Laurent blouse with an oversized bow and tapered black Dolce & Gabbana brocade trousers with a peony motif, a display of high-fashion taste.

The same day, Melania Trump and Peng toured the Smithsonian's National Museum of Asian Art in Washington. It was the two first ladies' first public outing without their husbands since 2017. Photo by AP

Peng chose a deep navy dress cut in the silhouette of a traditional qipao, finished with a silver floral brooch. The dress had a clean, structured cut that felt both dignified and approachable. SCMP described the choice as deliberate. Standing in a gallery of world-renowned historic Chinese porcelain, Peng in her outfit seemed to link ancient art history with contemporary Chinese fashion.

While Peng brought an Eastern touch, Melania Trump opted for classic Western style in a black Alexander McQueen tweed skirt suit. SCMP said the contrast made for a colorful and harmonious diplomatic picture. Video courtesy of X/@ThePatriotOasis

On Sept. 23, Xi and Peng arrived at Joint Base Andrews in Maryland, outside Washington, for Xi's first state visit to the U.S. in 11 years. Photo by AFP

Peng wore a pale gray midi dress with matching shoes, a soft, modest look. SCMP's fashion experts said a neutral shade like pale gray suited the formal welcome ceremony, projecting solemnity and composure. The high neckline and modest silhouette carried a traditional feel. Because the design was pared back, the overall look read as a contemporary, Eastern-inspired design.

The Straits Times noted that her style has grown increasingly simple compared with the more elaborate looks of her earlier years.

Peng's outfits also drew praise during Xi's 2017 trip to the U.S. At a dinner at Mar-a-Lago in Palm Beach, Florida, on April 6, 2017, she skipped a Western evening gown for an indigo qipao embroidered with flowers in the style of classical Chinese painting, paired with a purple velvet shawl. In Chinese culture, indigo symbolizes tranquility, wisdom and depth, according to a Los Angeles Times review of the trip.

Melania Trump chose a red Valentino dress as a gesture of hospitality, since red is considered a lucky color in China. The Hollywood Reporter said the contrast between Melania's bold red and Peng's understated indigo created a balanced and striking picture. Video by Reuters

On the morning of April 7, 2017, the two first ladies' motorcade arrived at Bak Middle School of the Arts in West Palm Beach, Florida. Peng wore a long white qipao under a lace vest, a combination The Straits Times said looked elegant and gentle, suited to a school setting. She completed the monochrome look with dark heels and a small matching bag. While Peng went for an East Asian look, Melania Trump appeared relaxed and modern in high-waisted dark jeans, a tank top and a floral-print silk scarf. Video by AP

During Xi's 2015 state visit, Peng arrived at Paine Field near Seattle on Sept. 22 in a white coat with navy trim and a modernized Chinese collar. The blue on her coat matched Xi's tie. She paired it with a white skirt printed with floral and foliage motifs that matched her clutch. According to The Straits Times, her Chinoiserie style showed confidence while staying understated. Photo by AFP

Chinoiserie is a Western decorative art style that originated in 17th- and 18th-century Europe, imitating and stylizing elements of Chinese and East Asian culture and art. It blends Asian motifs such as birds, flowers, dragons, phoenixes, landscapes and porcelain with the romantic sensibility of European Rococo and Baroque.

At the White House state dinner hosted by then-President Barack Obama on Sept. 25, 2015, Peng wore a deep turquoise silk gown with intricate beading and crystals on the bodice. She carried a small matching clutch, wore pearl earrings and styled her hair in a high bun. Photo by AFP

According to SCMP, turquoise conveys luxury and elegance without being showy. Choosing a gown without Chinese motifs signaled openness to the world, while the fabric and beadwork still carried a strong mark of traditional craftsmanship.