Jalinan weaves a tasty tapestry of Malaysian flavours

Like threads woven together to form a tapestry, the flavours at Jalinan draw from different cultures, cuisines and culinary traditions.

It is a fitting reflection of the restaurant’s name. Meaning “connection” or “interweaving” in Malay, this new noodle bar in Taman Tun Dr Ismail (TTDI) creates dishes that are familiar yet unexpected.

Opened in June, Jalinan is a new project by founders Aaron Khor, Aaron Phua and Bimmy Soh, the trio behind Fifty Tales, another popular local noodle bar.

“The intertwining of cultures and races … that’s the beauty of Malaysia, right? So, this is a play on that concept. Expect to see dishes you’re familiar with, but presented with new interpretations,” Jalinan co-owner and beverage director Phua told FMT Lifestyle.

“I’m Peranakan, so growing up, we often had Chinese, Malay, Indian food at the same table. I wanted to open a restaurant which reflected that: what multiculturalism would look like on a plate,” co-owner and head chef Khor added.

Part of the challenge, Khor said, was creating a new take on traditional Malaysian dishes while retaining the flavours and character that made them beloved in the first place.

According to its founders, the Dry Laksa Ulam is among the most popular dishes here. This aromatic remix of the classic nasi ulam certainly lives up to its roots, with springy noodles enlivened by a medley of fragrant local herbs, served alongside succulent grilled golden pomfret.

Three may be a crowd but there’s also tastiness in threes, as you’ll discover with the quirkily named “Tiga Sekawan”.

The dish brings together lesser-used cuts of the cow – beef tongue, Argentinian beef belly and oxtail – in a sauce infused with lesser galangal and daun semomo, a leaf traditionally used by the Temuan Orang Asli.

After a few bites, you may wonder why these delicious cuts don’t get more time in the spotlight.

Another highlight is the Sea Prawn Sambal Goreng. Plump prawns luxuriate in a sultry sauce of coconut milk, asam jawa, lemongrass and belacan, complemented by fried shallots, garlic and crunchy cashews.

Rich, savoury and slightly tangy, it’s a dish with plenty of character.

Reflecting its pride in Malaysian flavours, Jalinan places strong emphasis on natural, locally sourced ingredients. Its vegetables come from Bentong, Perlis and Shah Alam, while fish is sourced from Kuala Selangor.

Some dishes come with a bit of a kick, courtesy of habaneros grown in the Cameron Highlands!

If you’re not familiar with local cuisine, there’s no need to worry: the menu includes a handy glossary of Malaysian ingredients you may have always been curious about but never tried.

With detailed descriptions of everything from cekur leaf to wasabi-na, there’s plenty to discover here.

End your meal on a sweet note with pineapple doughnuts and cucumber raita ice cream, or explore the restaurant’s equally inventive selection of beverages. Who knew vadai could be turned into a cocktail?

The very specifically named “Jalan 6, Kampung Baru”, a combination of coconut water, Ribena and citrus, pays tribute to their bartender’s upbringing.

Or have it your way with “Suka Hati Kau”, a zesty concoction of peanut butter fat-washed rum, banana leaf Malibu and cucumber juice.

Khor and Phua are pleased with the positive reception their food has received so far, and are still finetuning the menu to ensure the best possible dining experience.

“I hope that, ultimately, people enjoy their time here. There’s a lot of beauty in this country, and I hope people experience it through the food we make,” Phua concluded.

Learn more about Jalinan here.

Jalinan
3, Lorong Datuk Sulaiman 7,
Taman Tun Dr Ismail,
60000 Kuala Lumpur

Business hours:

• 6pm-11pm (Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays & Fridays)
• 12pm-4pm, 6pm-11pm (Saturday & Sundays)
• Closed on Wednesdays

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