Your new skincare secret weapon: Essences are the new hero product that beat dryness, banish crepey texture and stimulate collagen. Here's how to use them in your regime

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For years skincare routines have been getting more complicated, with new products being flogged to us constantly. But sometimes something genuinely useful comes along, versus a mere marketing gimmick. Enter: essences.

Long a cornerstone of Korean skincare and now a big trend in the UK too, essences are essentially liquid hydrators. There is no one single ingredient that defines an essence, it’s more about the cocktail of hydrating elements that restore skin health. They may contain hyaluronic acid and glycerin to boost moisture, fermented extracts for microbiome support, botanicals like cica and aloe vera to soothe, and barrier-supporting ceramides and lipids.

Use as you would a serum, patting a small amount on to skin with your hands after cleansing (cotton rounds soak up too much of the product), then follow with serum and moisturiser. Essences feel so watery, it’s easy to question whether they’re money down the drain. But because they are so light and soak in quickly, softening the epidermal layers of the skin, it means that whatever serum you then use penetrates better, and you end up getting more bang for your buck. Think of them as a catalyst for the rest of your bathroom cabinet.

Please note – these are not the same as the astringent toners you may have tried in the past, which were designed to grab any last bits of gunk you missed in your cleanse and ‘refresh’ your skin. An essence is the antithesis of those old aggressive formulas that reeked of chemicals and could often sting.

Some will appear indistinguishable from a toner, some will be more viscous, some even milky; you just need to find the right formula for your specific needs. For younger or greasier skin, using an essence instead of a moisturiser, before an SPF, helps keep it from being overloaded. Sensitive skin can benefit from the ‘less is more approach’ too. Meanwhile using it as an extra light layer of hydration, as well as moisturiser, is better suited to more mature skins. Ceramides make up over 50 per cent of the composition of skin; but by the time we reach our 40s, we’ve lost over 60 per cent of what we started with. Finding an essence with ceramides that draws moisture deeper into the dermis will help stave off dryness, minimise crepey texture and stimulate collagen production.

So why are essences suddenly everywhere? After years of potent acids and actives, there has been a noticeable shift towards hydration and barrier support. People want their skin to look plump and dewy, rather than over-exfoliated and angry.

It is not a compulsory step, but if you’re craving hydration an essence might be worth a place on your bathroom shelf.

BEST FOR SENSITIVE SKINS 

Soothing phytosterols, antioxidant-rich fermented rice and replenishing ceramides hydrate sensitised skin, without any sticky residue.

BEST FOR JET-SETTERS

In a handy mist format (and coming in at 95ml) this is suited to both bathrooms and extra spritzes on long-haul flights.

BEST FOR AFICIONADOS

This sure isn’t cheap – but it is still one of the cult Japanese brand’s bestsellers. It works well on all skin types, from dry and wrinkly to angry and spotty.

BEST FOR SERUM JUNKIES

If you love your actives then this affordable number will boost their efficacy. Apply before your vitamin C, retinol or acid of choice to add some extra oomph.

BEST FOR ANGRY SKIN

One for those of us who have a tendency to pick, squeeze and scratch – this is alcohol and fragrance free, so it won’t sting any skin with a disrupted barrier.

BEST FOR DULL SKIN

Bioderma is one of my favourite brands for hydrating formulas. This combines its patented complex with exfoliating salicylic acid, plus vitamin E for a nourishing boost.

BEST FOR DRY SKIN

Created specifically with mature skin in mind, this soaks in quickly but leaves skin notably softer – and you only need a tiny amount.

BEST FOR BARGAIN HUNTERS

Niacinamide not only helps repair UV damage, studies have also shown it has a positive effect on reducing wrinkle depth. Meanwhile ginseng boosts hydration – not bad for under a tenner.