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Monday, October 12, 2026

Philippe

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A vertical garden is a focal point of the dining room.
1 / 19A vertical garden is a focal point of the dining room.Bonnie Savage
Savarin with orange cream.
3 / 19Savarin with orange cream.Supplied
Pate en croute.
4 / 19Pate en croute.Philippe Mouchel
Philippe Mouchel outside his laneway restaurant.
5 / 19Philippe Mouchel outside his laneway restaurant.Joe Armao
For the canard a la presse, firstly, the duck is presented to the table.
6 / 19For the canard a la presse, firstly, the duck is presented to the table.Bonnie Savage
The bird’s breasts are carved from the crown and sent back to the kitchen.
7 / 19The bird’s breasts are carved from the crown and sent back to the kitchen.Bonnie Savage
The carcass is placed into the apparatus (right).
8 / 19The carcass is placed into the apparatus (right).Bonnie Savage
The frame is juiced.
9 / 19The frame is juiced.Bonnie Savage
Creating the base of a sauce au sang, or blood sauce.
10 / 19Creating the base of a sauce au sang, or blood sauce.Bonnie Savage
Armagnac, shiraz, shallots, thyme, master duck stock, duck livers and butter is added, before the sauce is flambéed tableside.
11 / 19Armagnac, shiraz, shallots, thyme, master duck stock, duck livers and butter is added, before the sauce is flambéed tableside.Bonnie Savage
And served with the reserved, and flambéed, duck breast.
12 / 19And served with the reserved, and flambéed, duck breast. Bonnie Savage
... alongside a quenelle of truffle pomme puree.
13 / 19... alongside a quenelle of truffle pomme puree.Bonnie Savage
Other dishes include rotisserie chicken breast with brioche and truffle stuffing.
14 / 19Other dishes include rotisserie chicken breast with brioche and truffle stuffing.Bonnie Savage
Gnocchi Parisienne with local forest mushrooms.
15 / 19Gnocchi Parisienne with local forest mushrooms.Bonnie Savage
The cheese and charcuterie cabinet greets diners upon descending the stairs to the subterranean restaurant.
16 / 19The cheese and charcuterie cabinet greets diners upon descending the stairs to the subterranean restaurant.Bonnie Savage
Oeuf mimosa aka devilled eggs with spanner crab.
17 / 19Oeuf mimosa aka devilled eggs with spanner crab.Bonnie Savage
The restaurant is accessed via George Parade off Collins Street.
18 / 19The restaurant is accessed via George Parade off Collins Street.Bonnie Savage
Birds ready for the rotisserie.
19 / 19Birds ready for the rotisserie.Bonnie Savage
Good Food hat15/20

French$$

Celebrating a decade of decadence at the Paris End.

Ten years is an eternity in restaurants. Most don’t get nearly that far and yet Philippe feels like it’s been there for many more, quietly influencing Melbourne’s French restaurants from underneath Collins Street.

Chef Philippe Mouchel’s advocacy for the food of his home town Rouen means this is one of Australia’s only restaurants where you can order canard a la presse, a uniquely visceral (and delicious) presentation of duck, prepared with theatrical flair at your table. Elsewhere, fans wax lyrical about the chicken breast. Stuffed with brioche, black truffle, a little foie gras and plenty of butter, it makes plush luxury out of a maligned cut and is proof of this kitchen’s bona fides.

French onion soup hews to Mouchel’s father’s recipe and is alive with cider, while devilled eggs, presented on a bed of shredded iceberg lettuce and improved with the sweetness of Queensland spanner crab, are gleefully twee. Long live this basement bistro of carnal pleasures.

Good to know: Canard a la presse must be pre-ordered with plenty of notice; allow two weeks to avoid disappointment.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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Last visited: July 2026

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