Skiing doesn’t get more dolce than Italy’s Dolomites


There’s something about the Dolomites that sets them apart from their Alpine neighbours. You can’t take your eyes off those soaring, jagged, pink-tinged limestone peaks, for one.
And, of course, there’s the stylish Italian character — only much of the region isn’t Italian as we know it. Most of the ski resorts in the Dolomites are in Italy’s Südtirol and seem more Austrian than Italian — in everything from language and cuisine to mindset. Then there’s the native Ladin culture, cuisine and language within this beguiling mix.
Add superb skiing and you have the makings of an unforgettable mountain holiday in a Unesco World Heritage Site. Most resorts are within the 1,200km of pistes in the massive Dolomiti Superski area, which you can access on the same pass. Here are some of the best places to ski in the Dolomites.
Cortina d’Ampezzo

Cortina
If you didn’t see the Queen of the Dolomites bossing it during the Winter Olympics earlier this year, you missed a fabulous spectacle. Cortina d’Ampezzo in the Veneto region combines Italian glamour with seriously top-class skiing, including a women’s World Cup run. Its 120km of pistes within Dolomiti Superski are spread around three main ski areas. Tofana is the most varied, with everything from the gentle blues of Socrepo to challenging reds and terrifying blacks further uphill. Faloria is the easiest area to reach from the town, but is geared mainly towards confident intermediates and experts. At Cinque Torri, get spellbinding views of some of the most spectacular Dolomite peaks by skiing the Super8 circuit.
Stay: You can’t get more central than Hotel Cortina, which has pleasingly traditional rooms. B&B doubles from £320; hotelcortina.com
Alta Badia
Speaking of lunch, food-loving skiers flock to Alta Badia to taste some of the best food in the Dolomites. The region is home to two restaurants with Michelin stars, and it certainly capitalises on this by hosting food and wine festivals all winter long. It kicks off the season on December 13 with its Gourmet Ski Safari, in which five top chefs take over mountain restaurants and offer their delicious take on local cuisine — which you sample as you ski from hut to hut in the course of a day. Six villages make up Alta Badia, with Corvara, San Cassiano, Colfosco and La Villa among the most popular. It’s also part of the Sella Ronda circuit, which you can join from Corvara.
Stay: Take in gorgeous mountain views from friendly, family-run Hotel Sassongher in Corvara, which has an extensive spa with outdoor heated pools. B&B doubles from £419; sassongher.it
Val Gardena
Val Gardena
Along with its neighbour, Alpe di Siusi, Südtirol’s Val Gardena covers 175km of pistes, including the men’s World Cup Saslong black run. You have the choice of three villages as your base: Ortisei, Santa Cristina and Selva di Val Gardena — all with typically Tyrolean architecture. Wherever you stay, you’ll want to set aside a whole day to ski the Sella Ronda, one of the greatest ski circuits in the world. Ski for about 38km through resorts including Arabba, Val di Fassa and Alta Badia. One thing you won’t be lacking on your route is an excellent place to stop for lunch.
Stay: Luxuriate in the outdoor heated pool in full view of the Dolomites at the adults-only Alpin Garden Luxury Maison & Spa in Ortisei. B&B doubles from £336; alpingarden.com
3 Zinnen
A few miles from the border with Austria, 3 Zinnen is an overlooked corner of the Dolomites — overshadowed by its glossier neighbours. This means you won’t get the crowds, but you’ll still get 115km of pistes and marvellous views of the 3 Zinnen (three peaks, or Tre Cime in this bilingual region). Slopes fan out from most of the five villages, all with bilingual names and all connected by bus or train. San Candido (Innichen) is the largest and also the proud birthplace of tennis star Jannik Sinner, though Sesto and Versacio are handier for bigger ski areas. 3 Zinnen offers its own Giro delle Cime, a 35km route that skirts round five mountains. Ski tourers can strap on their skins and set foot in Austria.
Stay: Enjoy views of San Candido’s ski slopes from Naturhotel Leitlhof — especially its enormous, light-filled spa and outdoor pool. B&B doubles from £293; leitlhof.com
Other Dolomites highlights
Kronplatz: Expert skiers come to Kronplatz to take on its Black Five Ski Challenge and track their progress along its famed tricky black runs. But with 27 blues and 13 reds, there’s enough to keep all levels happy.
Madonna di Campiglio: Running a close second to Cortina in the stylish stakes, Madonna di Campiglio in the Trentino region in the western Dolomites has 150km of widely varied slopes including those of neighbouring Pinzolo. Snowboarders love it here too, especially with four terrain parks to play around in.
Arabba: You’ll be right on the Sella Ronda circuit at Arabba, and intermediates and advanced skiers will relish the resort’s steep slopes. (Beginners, not so much.) Part of Dolomiti Superski, it has a direct connection to Marmolada glacier at 3,343m, the highest mountain in the Dolomites. Expert skiers who love history can ski the First World War ski tour around the Col di Lana from Arabba, as well as from Corvara, San Cassiano, Corvara, Civetta and Malga Ciapela.
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