London Fashion Week SS27: Five major moments, from M&S to McQueen

Of the big four fashion capitals – New York, London, Milan and Paris – London has always marched to the beat of its own drum. For spring/summer 2027, London Fashion Week has showcased the best of the British high street, emerging designers and fashion powerhouses.

Concluding this evening with Burberry, the five-day event has spotlighted next-season’s trends from Simone Rocha, Erdem, and Roksanda, while history was made with M&S’s debut show, alongside Mulberry and McQueen’s homecoming.

Many legendary designers launched their careers at LFW, including Christopher Kane, who broke through with acclaimed shows in the mid-2000s. This season, he’s returned at the helm of Mulberry. The British brand last showed in London in 2017, marking a major milestone for the luxury house.

McQueen is also reuniting with LFW on Sunday, with creative director Seán McGirr presenting his first London show for the label. Back in the city where the late Alexander McQueen found his inspiration, the show took place in an underground 17th-century chapel where Anna Wintour, Florence Welch, Emilia Clarke and Emma Corrin sat in the front row.

Also making headlines this season, M&S’s “see now, buy now” runway cements the retailer as a credible fashion player. Iconic models including Jodie Kidd and Erin O’Connor walked the catwalk while Dame Joan Collins, David Gandy and Ian Wright wore M&S garb in the FROW.

M&S makes its London Fashion Week debut

The high street retailer staged its first-ever LFW runway, marking its 100th fashion anniversary and shaking up the formula with its “see now, buy now” model. Taking direct inspiration from its rich archive, the show brought together its Collection, Per Una and Autograph lines with nods to a century’s worth of fashion eras. From a 1940’s inspired palazzo suit to a 1920’s inspired lace cami and skirt co-ord, every look was available to shop immediately after it appeared on the catwalk.

A further homage to time’s gone by, iconic nineties and noughties It-models Erin O’Connor, Jodie Kidd and Lara Stone walked the runway at The Design Museum. “As one of the great icons of the British high street, and a valued patron of the British Fashion Council, M&S has played an important role in the nation’s retail and cultural story for generations,” BFC CEO Laura Weir said.

The models spanned ages 21-60, reflecting the multi-generational appeal of M&S, while faux fur pieces were standout. Showing eveningwear staples alongside the M&S everyday basics we all know and love, highlights included matching slips, cape dresses and tops, sequin dresses and fringed skirts that looked more high-end than high street. The styling was on point: off-shoulder knits were paired with loose denim, plaid collars poked out of jumpers, and clashing print scarves were thrown over outerwear. Shoes and accessories also featured, from red pointed kitten heels to mesh ballet flats.

Mulberry returns with Christopher Kane at the helm

A major British fashion homecoming, Christopher Kane unveiled his first collection for Mulberry after returning to the fashion world. The Glasgow-born designer relaunched Mulberry’s women’s ready-to-wear collection while paying homage to the label’s signature material.

Leather appeared everywhere, from mini dresses and outerwear to shoes, bags and trousers. The laser-cut structure of the clothing mirrored the label’s most iconic bag, the Bayswater. This wasn’t subtle, with hems and lapels shaped like the Bayswater’s distinctive flap – some pieces used the recognisable shape to create scale-like layers.

The bag’s Postman Lock clasp also featured across shoes and accessories. Beyond leather, there was further recognition of the brand’s history and heritage with a plaid check trench and shirt mirroring classic Mulberry bag linings. The edgy occasionwear that helped make Kane’s name appeared in iridescent and cut-out mini dresses.

McQueen comes home to London

Seán McGirr presented his first London show for McQueen, bringing the iconic house back to the city where it was born. “Returning to London Fashion Week allows us to deeply engage with that spirit and the creative community that defines both London and this house,” McGirr said.

In a collection that combined two conflicting London worlds – Savile Row and club culture – sharp tailoring appeared alongside corseted dresses and sheer skirts. The model’s gelled, silver-dyed horns and scalloped heels saluted McQueen’s noughties heyday, while a skull chainmail dress and ankle strap heels dug further into the archive.

Theatrical tailoring spanned angel wing cape detailing, clashing pinstripes and sculptural silhouettes, while harnesses gave gowns McQueen’s signature edge.

The new guard takes centre stage

Unlike others in the big four, London always makes plenty of space for new talent. At the heart of the emerging designers is BFC NEWGEN, the British Fashion Council’s flagship initiative to support younger designers with funding, mentorship and opportunities to showcase their work on the LFW platform. This season, returning recipients include Charlie Constantinou, E.W.USIE, Liza Keane, OCTI, Oscar Ouyang, Pauline Dujancourt, The Ouze and Yaku, while buzzy debuts span Francesca Lake, Gui Rosa and Petra Fagerström.

Capturing the essence of London as a breeding ground for fashion experimentalism, but also commercial success and heritage, NEWGEN designers appeared alongside the likes of M&S and H&M, and Erdem and Mulberry.

Lady Victoria Starmer at Edeline Lee

Lady Victoria Starmer has her hair prepared at the Edeline Lee show (Jeff Moore/PA)

Lady Victoria Starmer, wife of former Prime Minister Keir Starmer, took part in Edeline Lee’s London Fashion Week show – her first public appearance since her husband stepped down. The London-based designer is a favourite among Royals such as the Princess of Wales and A-listers, from Helen Mirren to Olivia Coleman.

A very different kind of show on the LFW schedule, models were fitted, adjusted and styled in front of guests, while Royal Ballet dancers stretched and rehearsed in bright red costumes. The collection staged at a school gymnasium in Chalk Farm was based on the Greek myth of Sisyphus, with Lee taking contemporary inspiration from the way dancers train for years and their endless repetition.

The collection included tutus and leotards, alongside Lee’s signature modest power-dresses with capped sleeves, neckties and pleated skirts.