Lessons from Bhutan’s pursuit of happiness

There are destinations that specialize in scenery, while others are all about culture and history. Few places offer all of these together, with a touch of something deeper. These are places that cause the traveler to step outside the familiar, to observe the world and life from a different angle, and to return home with new thoughts, wonderings, and questions. Bhutan is exactly such a place.

Bhutan is a small kingdom in the heart of the Himalayan mountains, sandwiched between India and China, and one of the most unique countries I have ever visited.

Getting there from Israel requires a bit of planning, as there are no direct flights. Israeli travelers typically fly to a major Asian hub – most commonly New Delhi or Bangkok – and connect to one of Bhutan’s two official airlines, Drukair or Bhutan Airlines, which fly directly into Paro.

The experience begins in the moments before landing in Paro, as the plane maneuvers between the high mountains surrounding the valley. Paro Airport is considered one of the most challenging in the world for landing, and pilots require special training and deep familiarity with the terrain. Landing takes place under restricted conditions and hours, and in recent years, the number of pilots certified to operate at the field remains very limited.

And then you land and discover a place where life moves at a different pace.

'High Value, Low Volume' tourism model

Bhutan opened to international tourism in the mid-1970s, and unlike conventional tourist destinations, it chose a model that does not prioritize quantity. Instead of mass tourism, it promotes the principle of “High Value, Low Volume”  tourism on a limited scale, designed to preserve the local culture, nature, and lifestyle. Part of this model is a government fee imposed on tourists, aimed, among other things, at supporting sustainable development and preserving the kingdom’s character.

While many believe that an organized group tour is the only way to visit, Bhutan’s tourism policy has evolved. You can visit either by joining a pre-packaged organized group tour or as an independent traveler using a licensed local agency to customize your itinerary.

Whichever route you choose, you cannot simply backpack on your own: all tourists must pay Bhutan’s mandatory Sustainable Development Fee of $100 per night, possess an officially approved visa clearance letter before arrival, and be accompanied by a licensed Bhutanese guide throughout the journey.

But what made Bhutan famous worldwide is not just its tourism model, but the concept of happiness.

In the 1970s, the fourth king of Bhutan conceived a unique principle known as gross national happiness (GNH), as opposed to gross national product (GNP). Instead of evaluating the country’s success solely through economic activity, Bhutan seeks to look at a broader question: how to improve the quality of life while preserving nature, culture, community, and spiritual heritage.

This view encompasses areas such as education, psychological well-being, environmental quality, health, culture, community, governance, and standard of living. The message is simple but profound: money is important, but it is not everything. The model recognizes the importance of basic material wealth and its contribution to quality of life, but argues that other metrics – such as community life, cultural heritage, nature, and inner peace – are equally important.

Happiness comes from impermanence

During the visit, I decided to ask a local person a simple question: “What is your secret?” How is it possible that a small country, relatively undeveloped and not wealthy by the standards we are used to, became so closely identified with happiness?

His answer was short. One word: “Impermanence.”

This word stayed with me, perhaps because it recalls a fact that the modern world tends to forget. Things change, nothing is permanent, and a significant part of the ability to be happy probably lies in the ability to accept life as it is, appreciate what you have, and moderate the urge to attain what you lack.

In the 19th century, Bhutan became a kingdom with the crowning of its first king. In 2008, during the reign of the fourth king, the country transitioned to a democratic constitutional monarchy, with elections and an elected government.

The royal family are still “present” almost everywhere – in conversations, decisions, billboards, and especially in the attitude of the Bhutanese toward them. King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck is highly respected by many residents and is perceived not only as a monarch but also as a unifying figure who is relatively close to the people.

One of the things that caught my attention in Thimphu, Bhutan’s largest city and capital, was actually something that does not exist there: traffic lights.

At the most central intersection in the city center, there is a small traffic island with a policeman directing traffic with elegant and precise hand movements. There was something charming and calming about this sight, standing in contrast to the modernity and automation found almost everywhere in the familiar Western world.

At the same time, Bhutan lacks the culture of giant mega-malls and international brands that characterizes many cities worldwide. Shopping centers consist of local markets, small arcades, shops, and stalls, in a style of commerce that reminded me in some ways of Israel in the 1950s and 60s.

Bhutan food culture

And then comes the food – and here, too, everything is a bit different.

In a traditional restaurant, we sat on the floor as part of the local custom. Tea was served even before the food – a local tea called Suja, which combines tea with salted yak butter. For someone used to tea with milk and sugar, or morning coffee, the taste was surprising. But for the Bhutanese, it is much more than a beverage: it is part of the hospitality culture and daily life, especially in the mountainous regions.

Among the other characteristic products I tasted were dried Bhutanese cheese, which has an intense flavor and a texture very different from the cheeses we know in Israel, as well as a salad where the main ingredient was hot chili peppers.

The traditional dress also tells the country’s story. Men wear a robe called a gho, and women wear a long, embroidered dress called a kira, featuring colors and patterns that blend seamlessly with the traditional architecture and the prominent presence of local Buddhism.

Buddhism in Bhutan is practically everywhere, not just in temples. It is present through monasteries, colorful prayer flags fluttering in the wind, art, architecture, and people’s relationship to nature and community.

In sacred places, visitors are asked to remove their shoes, refrain from photography, behave modestly and respectfully, speak softly, and even pay attention to how they sit. In the local culture, it is disrespectful to point the soles of your feet toward a holy statue, a person, or a monk. These are small gestures that together say a lot about a society where respect for tradition and others is part of daily life.

The colors in Bhutan are also not just a matter of aesthetics. The prayer flags flying everywhere come in five colors – blue, white, red, green, and yellow – which are linked to five elements and different dimensions of existence. Prayers and mantras are written on the flags, out of the belief that the wind will carry them forward.

Various symbols also express mythology and meaning, including the lotus flower and the Dharma wheel. You can encounter them in temples, buildings, traditional art, and various objects. They are not merely decorations, but a way to bring spirituality into everyday life.

Trail to the “Tiger’s Nest” monastery

One of the most meaningful personal moments for me in Bhutan was the climb to the “Tiger’s Nest” monastery (Paro Taktsang), arguably the site most identified with the country. The monastery hangs on a cliffside high above the Paro Valley, at 3,100 meters above sea level.

The trail to it is an integral part of the experience, featuring a mountain path, steep ascents, stairs, forests, and sections where you have no choice but to stop and catch your breath. The altitude, the continuous climb, and the stairs make the trek a true challenge.

I also set out on the climb, reaching an altitude of 2,900 meters, where I decided to stop and not go any further. This was another lesson I received from Bhutan. We are used to setting goals and pushing ourselves to reach the summit, but sometimes you also need to know when to stop, listen to your body, recognize limits, let go, and enjoy what you have already achieved or the journey itself. Perhaps this ability is also a type of success.

Bhutan offers much more beyond the iconic Tiger’s Nest. One of the most impressive locations is the Punakha Dzong, a magnificent fortress-monastery situated at the confluence of two rivers and considered one of the most beautiful buildings in the country. The road to it from Thimphu passes through the Dochula Pass, a mountain pass at an altitude of 3,100 meters, where 108 impressive Buddhist stupa monuments stand. On clear days, views of the Himalayas unfold from there.

Another place not to be missed is the Phobjikha Valley, a wide, green valley offering pastoral hiking trails and scenery completely different from urban areas. The valley is also famous for the black-necked cranes that migrate from Tibet and arrive during the winter.

Thimphu also offers a series of attractions, including a giant seated Buddha statue overlooking the valley, the weekend market selling local vegetables, fruits, grains, and incense, as well as monasteries, museums, and cultural centers.

In Paro, it is worth visiting the Paro Dzong, the National Museum, and the ancient Kyichu Lhakhang temple.

Bhutan is also an excellent destination for trekking enthusiasts, with trails of various difficulty levels – from relatively short hikes to journeys lasting days and weeks in the Himalayas. For those seeking a true challenge, the Snowman Trek awaits, which is considered one of the hardest treks in the world, featuring a long and demanding route through northern Bhutan and mountain passes at altitudes of up to 5,000 meters.

One of the most special moments for me was actually quite simple: a hot bath with local medicinal herbs, heated by scorching stones. After grueling days of driving through the mountains, visiting temples, landscapes, and sites, I had the opportunity to rest in the warm water with local plants, minerals, and scents – an experience that beautifully illustrated the Bhutanese connection between nature, tradition, and humanity.

Gelephu Mindfulness City seeks to combine economic development with traditional Bhutanese values

As if all this weren’t enough, Bhutan is currently promoting one of the most intriguing projects in the world: Gelephu Mindfulness City – in the Gelephu region in the south. This is a Special Administrative Region whose vision seeks to combine economic development with traditional Bhutanese values, promoting sectors like health and wellness, education, technology, innovation, and spirituality. The project is being advanced under the auspices of the king and aims to create a new urban model influenced by Bhutanese culture and the principles of Gross National Happiness.

This is perhaps one of the most interesting paradoxes in Bhutan: a country identified worldwide with tradition, quiet, and a different pace of life, while simultaneously trying to plan its future through an ambitious urban project.

A quick note on accommodation in Bhutan: during my visit, I found that three-to-four-star hotels can be of a very good, pleasant, and organized standard. Those looking for five-star hotels will, of course, find luxury options, but the price matches. And as a reminder, the meaningful experiences are those outside the hotel, including the culture, the people, and the landscape.

The Himalayan mountains accompany the visit almost everywhere, from landing to takeoff. Between and along the slopes of the mountains lie green valleys, forests, rivers, fortresses, villages, fields, and monasteries built onto cliff faces, alongside hundreds and thousands of colorful prayer flags.

All of these add up to the feeling of being inside a postcard or a fairy tale. To the landscape, another special component is added – the welcome. Our hosts received us with genuine warmth, heartfelt patience, and a desire to share their culture with us.

When I said goodbye to Bhutan, one thought remained with me. We live in a world that measures success through money, houses, cars, titles, achievements, or our number of followers on social networks. In the face of all this, Bhutan offers a different touchstone. It proposes adding health, time, community, nature, culture, relationships, and a sense of meaning to the equation.

I was left mostly with that same word I heard during the journey: Impermanence. Perhaps not the absolute secret to happiness, but a thought worth taking home: to appreciate what we have a little more, to be a little less preoccupied with what is missing – and to moderate our constant craving for more.

And sometimes, just like on the path to the Tiger’s Nest, knowing when to stop is also part of the journey.

Special thanks to Dr. Nimrod Sheinman for his help, advice, and assistance in editing this report.