Ralph Lauren faces flak for ‘stealing’ Indian craft: What is zardozi embroidery featured on New York Fashion Week gown?

Zardozi has been registered in Lucknow and six surrounding districts since 2013, with around one lakh seventy-five thousand artisans working in the cluster.

A deep pink evening gown featuring intricate embroidery, shown by US fashion brand Ralph Lauren at New York Fashion Week, has drawn flak on social media, with users accusing the brand of failing to credit Indian craftsmanship.

On September 12, Ralph Lauren's official Instagram account shared images of the gown, including a close-up of its embroidery. The caption read, “Draped with shimmering silk-viscose and scattered with hand-applied embellishments, an eveningwear gown from #RalphLaurenSpring2027 makes a cinematic statement.”

What is zardozi?

The post describes the fabric and embellishments but does not refer to India or identify the craft used in the embroidery. The technique in question is zardozi, a form of embroidery that originated in Persia at least 300 years ago and later gained prominence in India during the Mughal era.

Fashion designer Prakhar Rao Singh Chandel drew attention to the issue in an Instagram post. He noted that zardozi has been registered in Lucknow and six surrounding districts since 2013, with around one lakh seventy-five thousand artisans working in the cluster.

Chandel also criticised the wording used by Ralph Lauren, arguing that while the brand's post provides an elaborate description of the fabric, the intricate handwork has been reduced to a single reference to “embellishments”.

He also highlighted the final slide of the Instagram post, which features a quote from Ralph Lauren about wanting every garment to carry its own history and character. Responding to that statement, Chandel asked, “Whose history? Whose character?”

'Name it when you use it': Designer calls out brands

Chandel accused international fashion labels of repeatedly using Indian crafts without acknowledging their origins, followed by apologies only after the issue is publicly highlighted.

Referring to a similar controversy involving Prada last year, he wrote, “We already know how this goes, because we watched it last year. Prada showed Kolhapuri-style sandals in Milan in June 2025, and the show notes called them leather sandals. India was named two days after the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce wrote to their board. That is the tactic. Say nothing, take the applause, produce the credit only once somebody forces you to. Name it when you use it. Not when you get caught.”

Instagram users accuse Ralph Lauren of 'stealing craft'

The controversy also prompted Instagram users to question Ralph Lauren's description of the garment. Comments on the post included, “Start acknowledging Indian art,” “Indian embroidery inspired by Indian crafts,” “Indian art and it's done by Indian artisan,” and “Lol literally embellishments from India. Stop stealing craft.”

Another user wrote, “Racism towards Indians while actively stealing every part of their lifestyle, culture, and the very core of their identity is a level of audacity that needs to be studied.”

A separate comment said, “Honestly- this year somehow the cultural appropriation is off the charts.”

About the Author

Kanishka Singharia is a Senior Content Producer at Mint with a passion for news, trends, and the stories shaping the digital world. She specialises in spotting viral narratives by constantly tracking social media platforms and turning them into engaging, reader-friendly stories. Her work ranges from fast-paced breaking updates to sensitive human-interest features, blending speed with clarity. <br><br> With over four years of experience in news and trend reporting, Kanishka has worked with leading organisations such as Hindustan Times and Times Now. She moves seamlessly between profiling business leaders and telling the stories of everyday people, covering national developments just as effortlessly as the memes and conversations that dominate online culture. <br><br> She also reports on real estate developments and civic challenges in major urban hubs like Bengaluru, Delhi, and Gurugram. Her coverage frequently explores the struggles of startup founders, inspiring journeys of CEOs, and the experiences of candidates dealing with the complexities of visa processes. <br><br> Kanishka holds an undergraduate degree in Journalism from Delhi University and a diploma from the Indian Institute of Mass Communication. Rarely offline, she spends much of her time scrolling through X, LinkedIn, Reddit, Instagram, and Facebook in search of the next big story. When she finally logs off, she enjoys binge-watching shows and exploring cafes in pursuit of good food and better conversations.

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