Jwala, KL’s spot for a fiery yet refined Indian feast

Deepavali may be over, but that’s no reason to stop enjoying every manner of Indian cuisine. And if you’re in the mood to take things up a notch, Jwala in Bukit Damansara offers a dining experience that goes beyond the usual banana leaf meal.

Named after the Sanskrit word for fire, Jwala is an upscale Indian restaurant which has earned a place in the Michelin Guide for three consecutive years since opening in 2023.

With its sleek, contemporary interiors this restaurant makes a stylish first impression.

But the real attraction is its open kitchen, where diners watch chefs from India work their magic with a custom-built tandoor imported from the country. Fuelled by Sarawak mangrove wood charcoal, the oven is central to the signature chargrilled dishes and freshly baked breads here.

FMT Lifestyle visited Jwala for a weekday lunch and here’s the verdict.

One dish that deserves a spot on every table is the Jwala Black Dal. Once you’ve tried this, and you may never look at the humble lentil dish the same way again.

Made with black lentils (urad dal), it is slow-cooked overnight using the residual heat of the tandoor’s dying embers. The result is a rich, velvety preparation that has a distinct earthy, smoky flavour from the charcoal.

The perfect companion is the restaurant’s signature tandoori croissant naan, which brings together the best of two familiar favourites. Made by laminating the dough with butter, much like a French croissant, it is baked against the inner walls of the clay oven.

The result is a golden, flaky crust that crackles when torn apart, giving way to a pillowy interior with the chewiness of traditional naan. Scoop up the dal with the naan and follow it with a sip of masala chai. It is an unassuming combination, but your taste buds will beg to differ.

For something meatier, try the Angaar, a tandoor-grilled chicken dish served with fried spinach and pickled onions. The chicken is juicy and beautifully charred, with a fragrant marinade featuring toasted, cracked fennel seeds. The spices add plenty of flavour without overpowering the dish.

Those dropping by for lunch should consider the thali set, which offers a little bit of everything on one platter. It comes with tomato rasam, dal palak, jeera rice, roti, papadam, mixed pickle, papaya salad, kulfi and a cup of masala tea.

For the meat component, diners can choose either butter chicken or mutton varuval.

The butter chicken is a more refined take on the familiar favourite, with a smooth, rich gravy that allows the spices to shine without being overwhelmed by sweetness.

Although Jwala specialises in North Indian cuisine, its mutton varuval is not to be overlooked. Rather than the usual large chunks of meat, the mutton is served in strips so tender they practically fall apart with each bite.

It is also less oily than many versions, allowing the meat’s natural flavour and fragrant curry leaves to shine without an overwhelming chilli kick.

Another pleasant surprise in the thali is the papaya salad. Sweet with a tangy finish, it makes for an addictive little accompaniment that is easy to keep going back to. There’s plenty more to explore on the à la carte menu, from biryani and lamb chops to malai kofta.

Those seeking a more elaborate experience can opt for the seven- to nine-course tasting menus, which showcase more inventive combinations such as strawberry papdi chaat and croquettes.

Later this month, the restaurant will also collaborate with Japanese restaurant Okaju on a special tasting menu celebrating Indian and Japanese flavours. Expect creative combinations such as curry soba and caviar pani puri.

Whether you’re after comforting classics or a more adventurous dining experience, Jwala serves up a compelling reason to look beyond the usual Indian fare.

Jwala
E-2-01, Level 2, Block E,
The Five @ KPD,
49, Jalan Dungun,
Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur

Business hours:
12pm–3pm; 6pm–11pm (closed on Mondays)

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