Bar Gabi
At this relaxed sibling venue to two-hatted fine diner Navi, considered drinks and dishes are priced at $38 or less. Cocktails are the priority, some drawing on Victorian producers like the signature martini using gin made exclusively for the venue by Rothwell Distillery.
Food is no afterthought though, especially when there’s a 700-kilogram Brazilian-made grill to play with. Fitted with 32 rotisseries and fuelled by redwood and compressed charcoal, alongside offcuts of saltbush and applewood, the behemoth is the centrepiece of the kitchen. Mussels are steamed, pickled, then finished over hot coals and served on a potato cake with Geraldton wax and white radish. Sourdough potato damper is cooked directly in the embers and served with whipped wattleseed and miso butter, while Murray cod ceviche gets a savoury boost from crispy fish “bacon”.
Beyond the grill, the menu draws on Melbourne’s breadth of culinary influences without adhering to a single tradition. Kangaroo sausage takes a distinctly Thai lean. Flavoured with lemongrass, chilli, makrut lime and shrimp paste, the snag is sliced and served with betel leaves, salted egg yolk and chutney for guests to assemble themselves.
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