Ex-engineer keeps 80-year-old sweet tradition alive

Whenever Deepavali rolls around, Jai Hind becomes packed with customers, many of whom return year after year for familiar favourites.

Located on Jalan Melayu in the city centre, this institution serving Punjabi cuisine since 1946 is known for its time-honoured recipes and traditional Indian sweets.

Behind the counter is Bhoopender Singh, who has spent more than four decades keeping the establishment going – despite never having intended to make the restaurant his life’s work.

“I was not interested in running the shop. I was more interested in professional life,” he told FMT Lifestyle.

A former chemical engineer, Bhoopender had other ambitions in Australia. But when the family business began to struggle, he made a decision that would shape the rest of his life.

“The shop was being neglected. So I quit my job and decided to take over because of my mother. She was very worried about it. I kept it going, and it wasn’t easy,” the 75-year-old shared.

His father, Dallip Singh, had taken over Jai Hind from its previous owners in 1946 alongside three partners. He eventually bought out their shares to become its sole proprietor.

The restaurant’s name has roots in India’s independence movement. Bhoopender revealed that famed Indian freedom fighter Subhas Chandra Bose had delivered a speech in Kuala Lumpur in 1945, ending with the slogan “Jai Hind” – meaning “victory to India”.

The name subsequently caught on among businesses in the area.

For Bhoopender, however, Jai Hind’s significance goes beyond its history. It is where he spent much of his childhood, growing up amidst the bustle of the restaurant and its kitchen.

“I worked here when I was about 12 years old. I’d come back from school in the afternoon and take over the counter while my father rested,” he recalled.

He would spend his days playing hide-and-seek with friends at a nearby mosque and fishing in the river – once earning a beating from his father for the latter.

Deepavali meant sneaking gulab jamun from the kitchen: childhood memories that would later fuel his determination to keep Jai Hind alive.

“I never thought of giving up the shop. It never crossed my mind. I had to keep it going; the name, Jai Hind, had to be be maintained,” he said.

Whether Jai Hind will remain in the family is another question. His two daughters live in Australia and do not intend to return, while his son, who is studying information technology, has shown little interest in taking over.

Still serving, still celebrating

Deepavali remains Jai Hind’s busiest period. Customers arrive in droves for barfi, palkova, ladoo and other sweets prepared using traditional recipes and ingredients sourced from India.

“I just love to see my customers keep coming back. Some of them I only see during Deepavali. They turn up for our food and, of course, our sweets too.

“I also celebrate with my workers at night,” Bhoopender added. “I buy fireworks and prepare special meals for them.”

For now, Bhoopender remains the anchor of Jai Hind. Despite the long hours and the challenges that come with age, as long as customers leave satisfied, he has little reason to stop.

Asked what he looks forward to the most during the festive season, he replied: “That I am able to stand here and serve and sell my sweets and make my customers happy. To me, that is my Deepavali.”

Jai Hind
15, Jalan Melayu,
50100 Kuala Lumpur

Business hours: 8.30am-8pm daily

Contact: 03-2692 0041

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