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The Daily Newsstand · Free, Always
Monday, October 12, 2026

Mister Bianco

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When a beloved neighbourhood bistro ups stumps after 13 years to double down around the corner, it must be doing something right. Two years on, Joe Vargetto’s much expanded restaurant – complete with tan leather banquettes, terrazzo floors, marble-topped tables and colourful artwork – is indeed doing most things right.

Two orbs of burrata are doused in an autumnal melange of pumpkin puree, raisins and seeds. The always-popular veal cutlet is crisp-crumbed and pink-tinged, with an earthy, umami boost from creamy porcini sauce and chestnut mushrooms.

It would be a mistake to skip house-made pasta: perhaps spaghettini with regal prawns and dried scallop-spiked XO – a whirlwind of funk and butter. Waitstaff take jackets, recommend wine and happily scoop you a serve of the signature old-school tiramisu at the table as a final warm gesture.

Best for: A candlelit date night or a cosy celebration with friends.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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Last visited: May 2026

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