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The Daily Newsstand · Free, Always
Monday, October 12, 2026

Astoria Bar Ke Grill

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Get ready to upgrade your bread and dips game. Here you’ll be eating plate-sized, house-baked sourdough, cut into wedges for tearing and dipping. Warm, nutty and fragrant, when it arrives alongside the house taramasalata – itself lemony and well-seasoned, and whipped with mashed potato – it’s impossible to stop swiping.

Nik Pouloupatis (ex-Cutler and Co, Attica and Grossi Florentino) runs this terracotta-paved terrace and he’s ready to bring Peloponnesian dazzle to South Yarra. There’s greenery and stark white walls but the dining room, with gilt mirrors, full bar and linen napkins, signals restaurant rather than rollicking taverna.

The food is a balance of soulful and contemporary. Zucchini fritters are fried golden, a crisp, panko-crumb shell giving way to a gooey, cheesy interior. Arni yuvetsi, a nourishing and comforting lamb, tomato and orzo stew is presented in a cast-iron pot, just like at yiayia’s. Astoria means “star” and this restaurant has plenty of sparkle.

Must order: Filo tiropita (cheese pie).

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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Last visited: May 2026

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View the original on The Sydney Morning Herald →

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