Grill Americano
The ceilings soar. Behind the counter – white marble stretching to infinity – coals flare up on the Josper grills. A martini, nestled on ice in a mini carafe, lands on a silver tray alongside a couple of olives. Men in suits slap backs and delight at the candle in their meringue-coated layer cake. Women stride by like the room’s a catwalk. The amaro trolley clinks.
Dinner as theatre has been restaurateur Chris Lucas’ modus operandi ever since he turned up the volume at Chin Chin, and in late 2025, he imported Melbourne’s Grill Americano to Chifley Square, neighbouring – somewhat audaciously – Rockpool Bar & Grill. But judging by the hum of midweek service here, there’s room for two grills on the block. Order lobster agnolotti and the parcels are impossibly plump, the curves thrown into relief by high-gloss sauce Americaine. Stay simple for your steak, and prime cuts come unadorned. Go bigger, and there are three signature bistecche, each properly crusted, rested, then served in its own style, including a “pizzaiola” of tenderloin over a caper-infused sugo.
A solid line-up of cicchetti includes nicely crunchy lobster croquettes, and mozzarella – air-freighted from Campania twice a week – is torn over whorls of prosciutto. Perky spanner crab and avocado salad is the right idea in spring, as is the side of green beans boosted by a righteous Genovese pesto. Note that weekend crowds lean more casual, and on one Sunday visit, we counted three children watching Bluey on tablets at the table. Only a scoop of the tiramisu served tableside could compete for their attention.
Good to know: With star chef Phil Wood announced as Lucas Collective’s senior group executive chef in September, the deliciousness is set to be turned up a notch.
Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.
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Last visited: September 2026
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