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Friday, September 25, 2026

Ho Liao

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A casual setting for a chef’s inventive yet heartfelt creations.

Neon signs and festoon lights jam with Crazy Rich Asians Mandopop in this big and busy diner. It’s a peek into the playful mind of chef Junda Khoo. A snack of pai tee raises the curtain further. Traditionally a tall tartlet, it’s presented with two paths to deliciousness: pile warm stir-fried radish into the tart shell, or go rogue with a lettuce wrap

Either way, funky sambal belachan, one of 10 in the kitchen’s arsenal, is mandatory. The menu lists plenty of textbook Malaysian dishes – Hainanese chicken, salted egg squid – but Khoo always flips the script. Char kway teow is a kaleidoscope of crisped-up fish cake, pleasantly chewy noodles, sweet lap cheong and smoky lard, each element shining.

Dry-aged roast duck brushed with soy and the flavours of Hainanese chicken rice is regally presented with pancakes, five-spice and hoisin sauce: a modern Malay take on Peking duck.

Good to know: Book after 8pm for $13 mains and $9 sides.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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Last visited: July 2026

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