This talent factory in Brunswick East has recruited a chef with a killer CV

Etta in Brunswick East has been a launching pad for some of Melbourne’s most exciting talent since it opened in the autumn of 2017. Charlie Snadden-Wilson, now at Clover, Rosheen Kaul, now at Little Rose, and Lorcan Kan, Etta chef since 2024, have all made names for themselves, in part thanks to stints at Hannah Green’s hatted Lygon Street restaurant. Kaul and Kan were Chef of the Year finalists at the recent Age Good Food Guide Awards.

Now there’s a new name to add to the roster: Ralph So, formerly of Ho Jiak in Melbourne, Supernormal on Flinders Lane, the now-closed Rosetta, and Chin Chin Sydney, has taken over as head chef of Etta, as well as Daphne, Green’s sister restaurant on the same block.

Kan turned heads with his first menu in 2024, particularly a dessert of a chilli oil parfait that became a must-try dish of Melbourne. After balancing his work at Etta with university studies, he’s left to pursue a career in food science.

“It’s bittersweet saying goodbye to Lorcan,” says Green. “But we couldn’t be more proud of what he’s accomplished on both a personal and professional level.”

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So, who is originally from Malaysia, says he’s excited to take all of his experience cooking other people’s versions of various South-East and East Asian cuisines, and put it into the context of Melbourne and Etta, which has long been a standard-bearer for creative and personal cooking.

“I think in Melbourne we’re really forming a new era of Australian food,” So says.

For now, So’s focus will be on Etta. A limited new menu will launch this week, and his full menu will roll out over the next month. On that initial menu are dishes such as scallop toast with tom yum butter and green papaya, and blue swimmer crab rice noodles with burnt corn.

Meats will be cured and smoked in-house, and So hopes to launch a whole animal butchery program, benefiting from having the two venues to supply.

Next year, he will become more involved with Daphne. “I’m there to add a little layer of cheekiness and fun” to the more casual neighbourhood spot, he says.

“We really want to prove that you don’t have to go to the CBD for these great options, the amazing wine list, the great service. Hannah has been working for almost 10 years as the glue for this venue, and I’m just really excited to be on this journey with her.”

60 Lygon Street, Brunswick East, ettadining.com.au

Besha Rodell is the chief restaurant critic for The Age and Good Weekend.