Kota Baru's forgotten flavours take centre stage in Unesco bid

KOTA BARU: For the past four months, a group of 20 friends have been spending their days off combing the state capital's wet markets, seeking out veteran traders and elderly residents who hold the recipes, memories and stories behind Kelantan's lesser-known culinary treasures.

Their search goes beyond a shared love of food; it is part of an ambitious effort to put Kota Baru on the world gastronomic map.

For the Kota Baru Gastronomy Club, the mission is to bring the state's rich culinary heritage out of the shadows and into the international spotlight, with the ultimate goal of securing a place on the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation's (Unesco) Creative Cities Network.

While nasi kerabu and laksam have long found their way beyond Kelantan's borders, the club is turning its attention to delicacies such as itik solo, kuih pinang kontang and che banding — dishes that have yet to enjoy the same recognition.

These are among more than 1,000 traditional Kelantanese dishes the club is painstakingly researching and cataloguing as part of its bid to have Kota Baru designated a Unesco Creative City of Gastronomy next year.

"We want to highlight Kota Baru and introduce the uniqueness of Kelantanese cuisine to people beyond the state, including the international community," club founder Ariza Mohd Yusoff told the New Straits Times.

Ariza said preparations for the nomination were almost 80 per cent complete, ahead of the opening of nominations in early 2027.

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The club has also enlisted the support of the Malaysian Association of Hotels Kelantan chapter, with several hotel chefs agreeing to lend their expertise to the effort.

The initiative received backing from the state government's Economic Planning Unit and the Kota Baru Municipal Council.

However, securing international recognition will require more than assembling an impressive collection of recipes.

Ariza said the nomination would involve comprehensive documentation of Kelantan's culinary heritage, tracing the history, cultural significance and traditional preparation methods of each dish, along with the stories behind them.

Beyond reviving interest in lesser-known delicacies, the club also hopes to showcase the diversity of familiar favourites such as nasi kerabu, including its yellow and black varieties.

"Food is not merely about eating. It is a medium that connects people and countries. We have seen how nasi kerabu has gained international exposure, including in Switzerland, and we want to build on that," Ariza said.

For her, Unesco recognition could open doors well beyond the kitchen, drawing international visitors here while creating new opportunities for local food entrepreneurs and communities.

The club also hopes to establish a recognition programme for restaurants that champion and preserve traditional Kelantanese cuisine.

The road to recognition, however, may not be without competition.

Ariza said Penang was also reportedly eyeing a nomination for George Town under the Creative City of Gastronomy category.

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For now, Kuching remains Malaysia's only Unesco Creative City of Gastronomy, having earned the status in 2021.

Pertubuhan Cakna Warisan dan Komuniti Malaysia chairman Johan Ariff Ismail said Kota Baru's bid was timely, given Kelantan's wealth of culinary traditions and cultural influences.

He described the state as the cradle of Malay culture, where centuries of history and the ingenuity of its people have produced a remarkable repertoire of traditional dishes, savoury delicacies and desserts.

The Universiti Teknologi Mara Kelantan adjunct professor said the state's proximity to Thailand, coupled with its historical links to Sumatra, Riau-Lingga and Champa, had left a distinct imprint on its culinary identity.

"Kelantan's gastronomy is not just about the variety of food, but also the assimilation and curation of different cultural influences."

Among the traditional delicacies deserving a wider international audience, he said, were lompat tikam, cermin molek, akok, jala mas and buah tanjung.

"When tourists visit a destination, food is often one of the main attractions. Kelantanese food reflects the state's culture, arts and heritage.

"The economic benefits would trickle down to the communities, including those who prepare traditional kuih and preserve recipes passed down through generations."

Johan said the benefits of Unesco recognition could ripple far beyond Kota Baru, reaching communities across Kelantan's 12 districts through increased tourism, business opportunities and international exposure.